![]() ![]() You have two parts, the “tongue” that will mate with the groove on the stile and the “cope” that will fit the contour of the inner edge of the stile. This helps eliminate blowout that can occur as the router bit exits the cut. A small scrap of wood can also be used to “back up” the cut between the work piece and the stationary fence. The woodworker holds the guide against the fence and from right to left smoothly guides the work piece across the router bit. You can see here the coping sled in action. ![]() The guide ensures that the work piece maintains the correct distance from the bit while making the coping cut. The base is 10″x 12″, the stationary fence is 3″ x 10″ and the sliding fence is 2″x10″.Ī good sled will also have two handles allowing the operator to safely move the sled and a “guide”, usually made of clear plastic that provides a straight edge to reference against the router table fence. Then there is a “sliding” fence on the left hand side that can lock in place to clamp the work piece horizontally and a clamp to hold the work piece down vertically. This fence should be squared to the sled/router table fence. ![]() The basic anatomy of a coping sled is as follows: A base or “sled” for the work piece to ride on across the router bit, a stationary fence on the right hand side to provide sturdy support for the work piece. Start with a lower grit and gradually work your way up to higher grits to eliminate cutting marks and achieve the desired finish.The coping sled has but one purpose but it’s an important one! Helping the woodworker make a cut across the end grain (short end) of a work piece to create a joint that allows you to build frame and panel (also called rail and stile) doors.This is a precarious cut at best and without support to back up the cut, you can easily hurt yourself or at the very least ruin your work piece. To achieve a perfectly smooth and straight surface, use a sander with progressively finer grit sandpaper.Once you’ve finished flattening one side, rotate the workpiece upside down, secure it again, and repeat the process for the other side.Take your time to maintain control and ensure even and consistent cuts. Move the router back and forth across the surface, gradually removing thin layers of wood at a time.This helps avoid excessive pressure on the router bit and minimizes the risk of burn marks. Lower the router to the desired depth, taking care to only remove a small amount of wood with each pass.Place the workpiece onto the sled and use clamps and stop blocks to firmly secure it in place, preventing any unwanted movement.Attach the trim router securely to the router sled, ensuring a stable connection without any wobbling.These steps provide a more detailed guide on how to set up a router sled and how to effectively use it for flattening and surfacing work pieces. When selecting a bit for surfacing, it is important to consider the bit’s diameter, cutting length, and shank size. It is ideal for achieving precise and professional results. Use: This specialized router bit is primarily used for final surfacing, providing a smooth and flat finish on large wood slabs and tabletops.It has a large cutting diameter and multiple carbide inserts, ensuring longer tool life and improved surface finish. Benefits: The spoilboard surfacing bit is specifically designed for wood surface flattening tasks.Price Range: Relatively more expensive, ranging from $60 to $100.It can handle both softwoods and hardwoods effectively. Use: This router bit is ideal for initial rough leveling and removing material quickly.In addition to surfacing, it can be used for cutting mortises, dados, and rabbets. It is versatile and suitable for various woodworking applications. Benefits: The double flute design helps in efficient chip evacuation and provides smoother cuts.Price Range: Typically affordable, ranging from $20 to $40.When it comes to flattening surfaces with a router sled, there are specific router bits designed for this purpose. ![]()
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